I just got back from an impulsive trip to Lake Titicaca – which was spectacular and much needed water therapy! Sunday I was here at

Arriving at Tequile Island, Lake Titicaca
the hostel in Cuzco talking with a German girl and realized that my time in Peru this trip was winding down, and I hadn’t done as much far away exploring as I’d hoped. Could it be the bus rides to get here from Ecuador ruined me?
I start work this weekend as David Wolfe’s retreat is coming to town and my friend

The high seas of Lake Titicaca
Matt and I will be doing the raw food for them for 10 days. Then I only have a week left before I go back to the states.. and so much to do, visit the jungle, visit the coast, visit Titicaca and the floating reed islands. That later seemed the most doable in a 3-day trip, so I packed a bag and grabbed a taxi to the bus terminal.
Sometimes things just go like clockwork. There was a bus leaving within the hour. A

Gorgeous day for boating!
7 hour bus ride got me to Puno around 10am. I headed straight for the easiest hostel which was right on the main gringo strip – Hostel Monterrey. The guy at the front was a total sweetheart. He got me checked in for 8 soles (basically $2.50) then directed me to the nearest bar. Not that I needed a drink, but I definitely needed to walk after 7 hours.. and as a solo lady traveler, I like to pay attention at night. So I walked up and down this pedestrian street trying to catch some air. I did find one place still open, a raggae Venice looking hole in the wall, that happened to have some pretty good scotch, a night cap never hurt anyone J
I knew I had to get up extremely early to catch a boat to one of the islands. There are dozens of tours offered but I’d rather go it alone and work it out with the locals. I got to the port about an hour early and figured out my round trip for 25 soles ($8.00)

Visiting the Reed Islands and Uros People
now I just had to wait. The scene got pretty ugly really quickly as hordes of tour buses sped in and deposited their large groups.. off the bus, onto the boat and off. I have to say they have it down to a science and I was sure glad not to be in that scene as I watched from afar with some “momitas” who were running the small tiendas where you could buy food and water. I was told the islands have no water and since I feel dehydrated most of the time at this altitude, I bought tons!! I also didn’t have a clue where I was staying or the meal situation, so I bought enough food to sustain myself – not great food.. but snickers satisfies right?
Lake Titicaca is super stunning. It is situated where the Andes meet the high plateau grasslands, like this great big blue gemstone in the middle of all this arid land. The lake is South America’s largest lake and the world’s highest navigable lake with passenger boats. You can definitely feel the altitude in your breathing.. even though when you are looking at the clear blue-green waters, it’s hard to remember you are so damn high. 3826 meters.. around 13 or 14-thousand feet. Now I’ve been living at 11-thousand in Cuzco, so I much more acclimatized than some others on the boat. Still I made note of the extremely thin air.

Tequile Island, Lake Titicaca
I decided to stay the night on the island of Tequile.. which takes somewhere between 3-5 hours (these boats go really slow). The lake is basically split down the middle by

Locals on the Island
the border with Bolivia, so tourists have two options. One is to go out of Puno (which is what I did) and either day-trip to one of three islands, or stay the night. The other option is to take a bus around to Copacabana, Bolivia and visit their famed Isla del Sol. I just didn’t have the time.. but damn I need to visit the Bolivian side sometime, I just saw pictures on the bus ride home of there, highly recommend it. Tequile is a fairytale on its own. Only 7 km long, this island of 2,000 has no roads to speak of and some very steep stone walkways and steps. It takes a workout to experience this quiet and tranquil way of life. The locals here are in hella good shape, they have no choice!

Local who lives on the island, Uro tribe
On our way out to the island, we stopped by Uros Islands or Isla Flotantes.. which are probably what Lake Titicaca is most famous for. Haven’t heard of them? They are the unique islands made entirely of the totora reeds that grow in abundance in Lake

Woman from the floating islands selling her art
Titicaca. The people of Uros managed to figure out if they weaved enough reeds together, they would float and sustain a community. It’s amazing to see and experience. The first step onto the island is a crazy spongy one, you have to have faith the damn thing is going to hold. There are dozens of these islands each holding 3-7 families. The Uros people began their floating “life” as a way to isolate themselves from the aggressive Colla and Inca tribes. Nowdays it is pretty damn commercialized and they people know exactly how to pose for pictures and to bargain prices. Most don’t speak Spanish but either Quechua or Aymara, two native tongues. They use the reeds for everything. Boats, benches, houses, islands, arts

Primitive Meals
and crafts.. they even eat the reed, so it provides food too – don’t know how good it is or how

Life on a floating island
nutritional.. but pretty darn incredible huh? I just had to buy something from these people and help support their livihod. Maybe I’m a sucker.. but it is beautiful artwork and it afforded me a great conversation with my friend Julia who has 5 kids, bless her heart. It was nice to hear 4 o them were at school. It’s a life of hard continuous work. The Uros must lay down new reed every two weeks so they can keep up with the amount rotting away on the underside. They assured me some of the islands had been around for 20 years, so they must be doing something right. Imagine though, it’s like winter proofing your house every two weeks. We in America just don’t know what hard work is sometimes. As our boat passed through, we saw all sorts of men and women harvesting

Island Life, Tequile, Lake Titicaca
reeds for who knows what reason. Could be a patch job on the ole island, or time to make a new boat. The trip was already worth it and I hadn’t even reahed my destination.
I had some really cool moments on the boat trip. One was sharing my ipod music with one of the local gentlemen. If you can share 5 songs with another culture what would they be? A very hard questions and at the time, I went with old stand by like Paul Simon and the Steve Miller Band, mixed it with some Bob Marley and the Shins. I stayed up on the top deck the entire time, a lot of it by myself which was perfect. I got to meditate and soak in all the gorgeous healing energy the waters provide.. and to BE in the present. Such an amazing scene, I think I smiled the whole time.
When we arrived, the chore became hiking yourself and your possessions up to the town square which is located in the middle of the

Tequile Island, Lake Titicaca
island with great views. I grabbed a quick lunch at one of the only restaurants there (everything closes for dinner) and a beer never tasted so good. I then quickly found a family to stay with for the night. There are no hostels or hotels here. While touristy,

Happy and Peaceful, Island Time
most come for just the day. I had been told to get a real taste of island life, you stay the night, so that’s exactly what I did. I negotiated a room plus dinner and breakfast, dropped my bag off and went exploring. Oh what a damn cute island. The locals have obviously been doing some work. There is one main stoned path that reaches from one end to the next. I first took this path out to this white sandy beach, where I instantly took off my shoes and waded in. I had the intention of skinny dipping in the clear blues waters.. but also didn’t want to scare or offend anyone, so decided to keep the clothes on. The water was perfect temperature. Cold definitely, but not like glacier cold, like the lagoons at Ausangate. This water was refreshing and crystal clear. It reminded me somewhat of Lake Tahoe.. but with a much calmer feel. You could easily mistake Lake Titicaca for an ocean if you didn’t know. I then jammed it down to the other side of the island to visit the ruins. Stupid me forgot my camera so I only had an instant to work with, which sucked… tied to only 27 pictures
There are paths and walkways weaved all over this island and it could be very hard to navigate in the dark, I made note. I hit the ruins at the most

Tequile Island, Lake Titicaca
perfect time to catch a sunset. Ahhhhh, the peace and quiet of the island absorbed my thoughts. The ground below me, the wind in my ears, my heartbeat, the warmth of the sun. This is what it means to be connected to Planet Earth, to truly relish in her divine beauty. Love you Titicaca, thank you for existing and for affording me this pleasure!!
Made it back to the house just in time to sit and break bread with another young couple. I pulled out a bottle of red wine and some nori and olives to “perk” up an otherwise very bland dinner of potatoes, corn, rice and eggs. That’s the big downer about these islands. It’s too high of altitude to grow really good vibrant colored

The Perfect Ending to the Perfect Day!
vegetables and fruits, so they stick with the basics which can grow.. and have to buy the rest from Puno. Of course, we are talking about very low wages and well, a red bell pepper I just don’t think they would pay for. We ate by candlelight and watched the most spectacular lightening storm roll in on the other side of the lake. Cloud to cloud lightening all night long, seriously. I got up to go to the bathroom around 3, the light show was still going off, so I grabbed my sleeping bag and sat outside for a bit. Such a cool scene to have all the stars above and the ominous clouds and lightening strikes in the distance.
I managed to make it up before sunrise and to hike up to another section of ruins for meditation. Cold and windy, then the sun hits and life seems to just glow. The boat to come retrieve me and others was scheduled for 2pm, which was a long ways away and I had explored every inch of the island. What to do. After talking with some locals, I heard of a collectiva leaving around 9am from the other side of the island, so I put on my backpack and hoofed it over, passing so many children on their way to school. You wouldn’t believe how steep of a hike they have each day just to go to school. Again, I realize that perhaps we don’t’ know what tough is in America. These kids were so happy and smiley and they all were eager to say hello at the tall redheaded gringa. The boat didn’t leave on time, however it did go. I wish I had a picture. It was me and 10 local guys all dressed in their regional attire, red stocking caps which resemble Santa’s helpers, black pants, brightly colored thick cloth belts, little vests and huge smiles. Oh how I wish I had a picture to share!
It’s a good thing I took an early boat as absolute drama at the bus terminal. Turns out there’s a protest happening down the way and no busses are leaving for two days… 2 days!! That just can’t be. I need to be back in Cuzco to meet my group. How can this be? Only in South America. I was told it was way too dangerous for any bus to try to get through and that the roads were blocked off. Shiiiiit. Fortunately I happened to be there when two guys from Spain said screw it and talked two taxis into taking 8 of us backroad around the protest to a different town where we could catch a bus. It was like a damn movie I tell you. Super back dirt roads in the middle of nowhere. These taxi drivers were angels and I think they enjoyed the renegade trip. It was super dusty and dirty and took about 2 hours.. but all of a sudden we popped back out on a paved road and the town of Juliac was 30 minutes away. Grabbed a bus… and just like that, I’m back in my bed in Cuzco with visions of Titicaca to put me to bead. Ahhhhhh, such a nice trip!!
Posted in Biking, Camping, Happiness, Hiking, Kayaking, My Green Life, Outdoor Adventures, Personal Life, Rock Climbing, South America, Travel, Water Sports, Winter Sports
Tags: Adventure Travel, biking, bullet train, Camping, Cuzco, great hikes in Peru, high altitude lakes, Kirsten Gum, lake titicaca, mindful travel, Mother Nature, mountain biking, Peru, raw classes, raw food, South America, south american lakes, Travel Channel, tv personality, vegetarian
Recent Comments